Sintra

Our last day was one of my favorite. Nuno picked us up at 9:30am and we headed to lush and serene Portuguese countryside.

Sintra is knd of like the Newport of 18-19th century Portugal. This is where all the aristocrats and wealthy built their summer palaces. On the way to Sintra amazing follies and homes are tucked away into the hills. The first one we came upon was Palacio Nacional de Queluz.

This quaint Rococo palace reminded me of some of the palaces we saw in Russia, they are very grand but faded and very minimal security. We could get close to alot of the furniture and fiddle with door handles, candelabras and wall mounts. All the things I love to poke around. Apparently the stables are very good here and they have amazing shows on Wednesdays, but alas, it was all closed up today.

We then drove to the heart of Sintra. The town is in the hills and there is a cool microclimate there that kind of transports you to another time. Maybe is was the castle looking fountains, the moss covering old stone walls or the huge Hemlocks holding court but I can definitely see why William Beckford and Lord Byron called this place home for a time. Byron works himself into a total tizzy over the village in Childe Harold:

"Lo! Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes
In variegated maze of mount and glen.
Ah me! what hand can pencil guide, or pen,
To follow half on which the eye dilates
Through views more dazzling unto mortal ken
Than those whereof such things the bard relates,
Who to the awe-struck world unlocked Elysium's gates?"

Nuno drops us off at the bottom of a mountain where we take a trolly to the very top to reach the entrance of Palacio Nacional da Pena. This was built by an eccentric German Prince with his own money so that it didnt have to have public state rooms and instead could be a cozy albeit massive home for his family. This was a real highlight for me. All the turrets, onion domes and grotto like structures plus massive verandas and Moorish windows that looked out over amazing vistas to the sea.
We spent several hours here just puttering about and soaking in the cool climate.

We took the trolly back down to the bottom and Nuno then took us to the center of town where we had plenty of time for lunch, shopping and a tour of the official Royal Palace built in the 15-16th centuries. The tile work was amazing.
We popped into Parakeet, a famous little patiserie and bought the pastries Goncalo had mentioned, Queijatos (sp).

Leaving glorious Sintra we headed to the coast and winded our way past beach after amazing beach. On our way out of town we did stop to admire Wiliam Beckford's former home, Monserrat. A beautiful oriental folly that is now closed to the public. We also made an appearance at Palacio Quinta da Regaleira, a drippy castle of a place filled with gothic towers that lead to wild gardens of agapantha, pools and fountains. I could of spent the whole day here, there simply isn't enough time to see it all.

We continue to the coast and stop at the most western point in Europe Cabio da Roca. We take a picture in the windy weather, wave to New York and hop back into the car to Cascais. This former fishing village is a bit like St. Trop not in the glamour department but in its evolution from sleepy town to overcrowded beach. The water is gorgeous and the grand old homes dotting the oceanfront are right up my alley.

Nuno drops us off and we stroll for an hour and soak up a bit more sun, watch the sailors coming in from sea and get in a bit more shopping. As we approach Lisbon again the concrete becomes more apparent than the beaches and before we know it our day is at an end. Nuno bids us goodbye at the Lapa and we go in for a change and a rest before heading to dinner.

At Nuno's suggestion we try a very modern and hip spot called Bica do Sapeto. Partly owned by John Malkovich, it is in a former warehouse that looks over the water. We have Caperainias, rose, steak and eel (not our choice but a chef's compliment) and watch the sunset on our last night in Portugal.

Back at Lapa Palace we have another drink with our favorite bartender Goncalo. He was in quite a tizzy over lack of sleep and friend drama so when I pulled out a box of those gorgeous pastries we bought in Sintra for him, he nearly burst out in tears. It was so sweet and mom and I were happy we were able to cheer him up a bit. He continued to entertain us and we enjoyed our martinis while the pianist tickled the ivories in the main room. We bid Goncalo good night, I gave him my card and we headed to our room. (Since then we have been emailing and he sent me this picture of himself, sweet kid!)

We are in bed by 12:00 for an early morning rise for the airport.
Mother packs her bags and I take one more chance to stare out over the pool and palm trees, out into the ocean before I head back to New York for madness, mayhem and hardly a moments rest.

Lisbon, Portugal

Woke up at the crack this am and went to the terrace for our last breakfast on board. Sweet French David took care of us and gave both of us hugs as we left. He told mother one night how much he appreciated our mother/son relationship. His parents don’t accept him being gay and he doesn't see them much anymore. So sad.

We bid the crew adieu and head to the hotel. Our driver and escort in Lisbon, Nuno, picks us up and takes us to the Lapa Palace.
I have wanted to stay here for quite some time. My friends over at Brandman PR have Orient Express hotels as a client and have raved about this hotel for ages. I was happy to finally have a chance to stay. I met the Hotel Director, Sandro, at an Orient Express lunch last year and we have been in touch. Lapa Palace is a former mansion converted into a hotel in the early 1990's. It is a beautiful abode with a great staff and Raleigh-esque pool.

Sandro was there to greet mother and I as we arrived. Dave and Russ came with us to tour for the day. We all had coffee in the drawing room and then headed out with Nuno. He was an amazing guide and took us everywhere we wanted to see in his sleek and very air conditioned black Mercedes.

First stop was the incredible Jeronimos Monastery with its famous cloisters built in the Manueline style. We strolled under these cool and calm arches for about an hour before heading to the newly built Museum of Modern Art. It wasn't ideal to be inside a white box while in sunny Portugal but I wanted to see the latest art news going on in Lisbon so that was interesting.

We then spent the rest of the day touring all the main sights, eating lunch on a beautiful little street (albeit with too many beggars and sunglass sellers) and admiring the gorgeous tile work around the city.

At 5:30 we pulled back into the Lapa and said goodbye to Russ and Dave and headed to our room. The view was amazing over the pool and harbor. I had a quick jaunt to the pool while mother organized her suitcase and chilled in the room.

We had dinner with Sandro at the Cipriani restaurant in the hotel we dined outside on seafood canolini, an amazing egg soufflé and a chicken and lobster entree that was pretty spectacular. Sandro was a great host and we enjoyed chatting about Lisbon, NYC and of course food.

At 10pm we realize we are going to be late for our evening events- a BULLFIGHT. Sandro was kind enough to secure us tickets to a fight and I couldn't wait to check out the ring, the bulls and the toreadors!

The bullring, Campo Pequeno, was built in 1892 and is quite spectacular with its Moorish onion domes and elegant brickwork.

I was in 7th heaven the entire time we were there. We sat in second row behind a famous Toreador and I couldn't stop taking pictures of all the men in their elegant regal costumes strutting around and inside the pit smoking cigarettes, patting each other’s back and waving to their patrons and fans.

The band was high in the rafters and they would whip themselves into a frenzy when the Cavaleiros would enter the ring on their regal horses and wave to the crowds. I wasn't too worried about watching this fight since in Portugal it is illegal to kill the bull. Although it does have spears lunged into its neck, it isn't stabbed to death in the ring.

I tried to watch it more as a cultural event and to appreciate the horsemanship and courage of the fighters. It was such a spectacular experience. Mom and I had no idea we would be so enamored with the entire experience.

We left after three bull fights. We knew that, like a baseball game, it would be impossible to get a cab if we stayed until the end so we headed out and home for a nightcap.

Our bartender was the sweetest boy name Goncalo Rafael. Tall and lithe, he was quite the chatterbox and mother and I enjoyed talking to him about Lisbon, bullfighting and the hotel. We told him we were going to Sintra and he mentioned these amazing pastries from that region that we must try. He made us two great cocktails and we sat outside listening to the fountains and the pianist inside. At 12:30 we called it a night. We had a long day ahead in Sintra.

So far Lisbon has been a real highlight. I love the architecture, the faded glory of the capital and the warmth of the people.

Last Day at Sea

Woke up at 10am missing breakfast AND the champagne tasting.
We order coffee and croissants to the room and then mother dashes out to a political lecture. I zone out on a movie called The Last Mimzy.
11:30 I have a beard trim and then headed to the pool for the last sun soaked do nothing day. Anna sat by me again and we chatted for hours about everything. The waves were rough so the pool was drained and everytime we hit a major wave, water would come crashing onto the pool deck sending a freezing mist onto our hot bods resulting in screaches and shrills from guests.

At 4:30 we had high tea with some other friends and at 5:30 I decided it was time to pack. That wasn't so much fun but I managed to fit everything in. Later mom and I went for our last cocktail at the bar, had a nice dinner with Russ and Dave and then when Russ retired, the rest of us went to the Panorama Lounge to solve all the world's problems.

We hit the hay fairly early since we have a big day in Lisbon tomorrow. I pass by the bar where the rest of our gang is swinging and swilling. I stop to say goodbye but hold off on one more nightcap. Can't dance every dance!

Mad for Madeira

As luck wouldn’t have it, our favorite port was the one we were in for the shortest time.
With the rocky seas it took a bit longer to get to the island of Madeira. We arrived at 1:30 after a morning at the pool and a nice lunch on the terrace while watching the boat being pulled into port by lil tugs.

Madeira is the first place we visit that truly looks like a jet set summer destination. Don’t ask me why these terra cotta rooftops look different than the others but they were redder, the trees were greener and the sea was bluer. I have heard how historically the island has been thought of as a little tropical Eden because of its perfect climate and lush landscapes. I was instantly in love.

Short on time we quickly started our tour at the funicular near the port, which took us for a 20-minute ride above the homes, farms and gardens of this majestic island. As we rose higher we could see more and more of the shore, the lay of the land and the sparkling sea from afar. Once we reached the top our guide took us on a short tour of the gardens and wealthy neighborhood that was found at the top of the island. After about 10 minutes we came upon a massive pile up of Victorian wicker sleds and with the sounds of us approaching a bevy of men in all white with boaters in hand and on head flew out of a corner bar and headed to their respective sleds to take us down the steep hills of the island.

BACKGROUND: The wealthy of Madeira have always lived high above the city for the cooler climate and spectacular views. Originally the men would take a train or tam down to the city to work in the morning and return at night. The women however didn't have a way to get downtown during the day for shopping or socializing so a wicker sled was invented to be pushed by two servants to take these women to town. The men push, guide and brake for the sled down a dizzying and often speedy descent down one narrow street for Funchal.

Mom and I hoped in and off we flew. The views were amazing and the men were quite funny to listen to. It was our first day in a Portuguese territory so the language was an amusing change from Spanish. Once we arrived at the bottom the bus took us into town to try some Madeira wine. I already knew I liked it so bought some bottles to take back to friends. Then mother and I strolled around the city center checking out the cathedral, gardens and local shops. After only 45 minutes to ourselves it was time to head back to the ship and prepare to sail to Lisbon, our final destination...

Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Canary Islands

Now this is more like it! The co-capital of the Canary Islands, Santa Cruz is a chic, bustling little island metropolis. Gals in high heeled espadrils and gays in huge wrap around D&G glasses.

Again mother and I spent the moring wandering the quaint thoroughfares and doing lots of window shopping.

The massive mountains and thick weighty clouds that wedge themselves into the green nooks and crannies is totally my topographic cup of tea.

We take a trip to the other side of the island way up into the hills where the temperature drops and banana trees hold court. Next we head to a botanica garden established in 1774. The Orchids are amazing. It is here where Agatha Christie wrote The Mysterious Mr. Quinn and Oscar Wilde's father would come to relax. We then got dropped off for a bit of shopping in Puerto de la Cruz. What a waste! The entire place stunk of fried fish and burning flesh. This is the part of the Canary's I have heard about where all the British hooligans come for vacation. So not into it. I stare out at the sea and mother makes the best of it, popping into little shops to see what's news.

Mom and I again ate alone tonight. We enjoy a little tete a tete time and there was plenty of space in the dinning room. Half the guests had ordered room service. Since the ocean was a bit rocky too many people had a hard time walking (or keeping their stomach in order). Stalwart sea people that we are, it didn't bother us a bit! We had a Stinger in the bar and went to bed.
Mom is getting irritated with me. I keep passing out at 10:30. Where is her party boy son?!
Don't worry, he will be back.

Arrrecife, Canary Islands

Quel Hangover!
I barely stammer out of bed. The first day of not going to the gym the entire trip.

Our excursion doesn't leave until 2pm so mom and I head to the island for a bit of shopping. Realizing it is Sunday, the town is deserted. We hail a cab for a shopping district recommended by someone on the ship. Ends up they send us to a mall!

Mother buys some cute shoes at Zara and then we head straight back to the boat for lunch.

The afternoon proves much more fruitful. The excursion is into the volcanic national park. The island was covered by lava only 200 years ago and the lunar looking landscape is amazing. Pictures don't really do it justice. We first took a quick Dromedary jaunt through the park, which was good fun then we took a coach tour through the mountains and valleys of craters and lava streams. We stopped at a fantastically designed restaurant that cooked all their food over a volcanic pit! We then toured a vineyard which grows its grapes in volcanic pits. The wine was a bit too sweet for my taste but seeing acres of vines in black pits was a surreal experience. Or maybe it was just my hangover?

Back on board Russ, Dave and I have champagne in the jacuzzi as we pull out of port and then mom and I had a quick dinner. I was in bed by 10:30!

Day at Sea!

From Cadiz we tooled down to the Canary Islands right off the west coast of Morrocco. This meant a full day at sea. Just what I had been waiting for! I woke, had breakfast and then stretched out on a chair next to the pool from 11am-5pm. I only got up once to get lunch behind me at the pool grill. PERFECT! Listened to alot of Bebel Gilberto's new album Momento. Isn't she just top drawer?

Had a great long talk with a gorgeous British gal named Anna. She is an actress and angel reader and gave me loads of spiritual advice and of course proper ship gossip. Her fiance Lee is quite nice too!

That night we had a formal night so mother and I got dolled up and headed to dinner. We had been invited to eat with Dimitri, the Pursor. Who knows how that happened but we had quite the time. A great family joined us. The two daughters were major 70's hippies and were a riot. The parents were just as elegant and old school as possible. After a boozy dinner Dimitri ordered Grappa shots and they brought two rounds. I got plastered.

The rest of the night is a bit foggy but apparently from these pictures we had a hat showing in the Panorama Lounge with our UK friends.

Good times!

Cadiz/Seville

The night before we had a lovely dinner with our new friends on the ship, Dave and Russ. We enjoyed a bit of champagne and lots of Itialian delicacies. Around 10:30 the ship began squeezing its way thru the straight of Gibralter. We all headed to the aft deck where on one side we could see the towering rock of Gibralter and on the other the twinkling lights of Tangiers. Mmmmm.

The next morning we arrived in Cadiz. We headed out into the countryside of Andalusia for Seville. Our guide was amazing. She spoke as if she was reading an erotic novel, full of passion and elongated words. Seville was indeed a treat. Such a mighty city in its day.

The Cathedral was grand, the palace was very Alhambra and the gardens full of grottos, agapantha and tiled pavillions was lush and alive. Loved seeing Christopher Columbus' tomb!

Dinner on board was pleasant but drinks were hysterical. It was Kareoke night on board so I sang 'The Devil comes down to Georgia'. good times! I did a duet with my new Rhett Butler looking friend Shawn which was good fun.

Malaga/Alhambra

Another morning jog, another morning meeting with Apollo cresting above the mountain tops.
After breakfast we joined a tour to the magical Alhambra.
While we were there the '7 wonders of the modern world' contest was on and the Alhambra was in the running. The frenzy was everywhere from billboards to text messages about voting.
Alas, it didnt make the cut but to me it was a wonder hard to grasp.
Washington Irving spent time here writing about its history and romance and it is easy to see even today how he found it's air, scented with lemons and lavendar, and its architecture, Moorish, meticulous and majestic so poetic.

This is one place mother and I both could of spent days exploring.

Spent the late afternoon next to the pool writing and reading my Nancy Cunard novel.
Heaven